TrekLuangnamtha.com

Blessed with a mountainous tapestry, a vast protected area, and diverse ethnic villages, Luang Nam Tha is synonymous with culture, adventure and trekking for most travelers, although much of the province is wildness, the infrasture to explore it is some of the best in Laos. Guided exploration into the magnificent Nam Ha National Protected Area, a 2224-sq-km area containing some of the most densely foreted regions (96% primary forest cover) in Laos, can be complimented with independent travel to small villages surrounding Muang Sing, Luang Nam the and Vieng Phoukha.

The provincial population is 145,000, made up of 39 classified ethnicities (the largest number in the nation), including H’mong, Akha, Mien, Samtao, Thai Daeng. Thai Lu, Thai Neua, Thai Khao, Thai Kalom, Khamu, Lamet, Lao Lourn, Shan and Yuonanese. As in Udomxai Province, the Chinese presence is increasing rapidly with the arrival of skilled laborers from Yunnan.

LUANG NAM THA
The capital of the province, Luang Nam Tha is a quiet, ordered town where a grid pattern of streets reveals ever-so-quietly humming businesses and residences. It’s a lovely spot to dull out for a couple of days before or after a trek into the Nam Ha NPA. The town is surrounded by a patchwork of rich rice paddies and ethnically diverse villages, and exploring them would be a highlight of a trip to the area. It’s also a transport hub for buses from all directions, including China, and consequently attracts a transient population of traders and travelers, all of whom add to the melting pot.

The original town, which was always prone to flooding, was virtually destroyed during the Second Indochina War, and the administrative centre was consequently moved 7km north in 1976. The newer town centre sits on higher ground, and is close to where the high- ways come in from Muang Sing, Boten and Udomxai. Most visitors spend their limited time around the main street of this northern district, but the older southern district is mostly residential and, in general, much more interesting. Locals often refer to the southern centre as meuang (city-state) and to the northern centre as thwaeng (province).

Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Internet Cafe ( per hour US$1.80)
KNT internet
Tel: 5486086 – Per hour US$1.80 – Open: 8am-10pm.

MONEY
BCEL
Open 8.30am – 3.30pm, Mon – Fri
Foreign exchange for  US traveler cheques and US dollar, thai baht and Chinese yuan; cash advances on credit.
Lao development bank
Open: 8.30am – noon & 2 – 3.30 pm, Mon – Fri
Exchanges US travelers cheques, US dollars, Thai baht and Chinese yuan.

Post
Post Office
Tel: 312007 – Open: 8am – noon & 1-4pm. Mon – Fri

Sights

A Night Market showcase a colourful array of textiles, clothing, basketry, paper and other handicrafts from the diverse ethnic groups in the area.

The Luang Nam Tha Museum
Admission: US$ 0.50 – Open: 8.30 – 11.30am & 1.30 – 3.30pm Mon – Thu, 8.30-11.30am Fri.
It contains a collection of local anthropological artifacts, such as ethnic clothing, Khamu bronze drums, and ceramics. There are also a number of Buddha images and the usual display chronicling the Revolution.

Near the airfield are two 50-year-old wats, Wat Ban Vieng Tai and Wat Ban Luang Khon, both of mild interst. Ban Luang Khon itself (the area around Wat Ban Luang Khon) is largely a Thai Kalom neighborhood.

East across the Nam Tha from the boat landing are four or five Thai Dam villages at Ban Pa Sak you can observe Thai Dam silk weaving in action.
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EATING

Banana Restaurant
Tel: 5718026 – Meals: US$1-1.50 – Breakfast, lunch & dinner.
Underneath a shady thatched roof, this entrepreneurial little restaurant captivates the falang market with Western breakfasts (even cornflakes) plus a long menu of fried chicken, pork and vegetarian dishes (spicy and mild), plus curries, Thai dishes and salads. It’s cheap and tasty food.

Panda Restaurant
Tel: 5663122 – Meals US$1.50-2.50 – Breakfast, lunch, dinner
The huge menu at this modest, open-air restaurant encompasses everything from (divine) pancakes and egg to fish on tomato chili, beef with basil and tasty tofu fry-ups. The fruit shakes are also delicious and it’s run by an affable family.

Huean Lao
Tel: 8211111 – Meal: US$1.50-3 – Lunch & dinner.
With its open-air, 2nd-floor dining room and polished wood floors, Heuan Lao easily has the nicest atmosphere of any eatery located in the northern part of town. The mostly Lao menu is authentic and tasty – try the dried pickled bamboo with pork or the tangy chicken with chili.

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AIR
At the time of writing Luang Nam Tha’s airport was under renovations in order to become an International’ airport The idea is to cater to flights from Thailand, although Chinese investment is likely to make more use of it. Once construction is completed Lao Airlines is likely to resume its flights to/from Luang Prabang (one way/return US$45/86) and Vientiane (one way/return US$84/160). Schedules are anyone’s guess.

If you don’t want to bus the whole way up here consider a flight to Udomxai  and then take a bus from there.

BUS & SAWNGTHAM

The main bus terminal (tel: 312164) is just west of the morning market.

Luang Nam Tha can be reached via all- weather Rte I from Udomxai (US$3.20, four hours, three daily).

A side road going north off Rte 1 about one-third of the way to Udomxai leads directly to Boten (US$2, two hours, four daily) on the Lao-Chinese border. At the intersection of Rte I and the road to Boten, the small town of Na Toei has one guesthouse (US$2), a market, health clinic and customs checkpoint.

A sawngthaew plies daily between Luang Nam Tha and Ban Na Lae (US$3.90, three hours, 9am), roughly halfway to Pak Tha along side the Nam Tha.

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